Other ingredient
Tetrahydropiperine
A synthetic analogue of piperine (CAS 23434-88-0) produced by catalytic hydrogenation of black pepper-derived piperine. Used in cosmetics as a transdermal penetration enhancer at very low concentrations (0.001–0.1%): fluidizes stratum corneum intercellular lipids, reducing barrier resistance and increasing absorption of co-applied actives. Effective for both hydrophilic and lipophilic ingredients. Non-irritating and non-sensitizing at cosmetic use levels in patch testing. Marketed as Cosmoperine® by Sabinsa. CosIng-listed (skin conditioning function), no EU concentration restriction.
Also known as: thp, cosmoperine
penetration enhancerbioavailability enhancerskin conditioning
Benefits
- ✓Enhances transdermal absorption of co-applied actives by fluidizing stratum corneum lipids
- ✓Boosts bioavailability of antioxidants, vitamin C, and other water- and oil-soluble actives
- ✓Effective at very low concentrations (0.001–0.1%) — no meaningful contribution to formula texture or odor
- ✓Non-sensitizing at cosmetic use concentrations in RIPT testing
Watch for
- ⚠Non-selective penetration enhancement: increases absorption of all co-applied ingredients, including potential irritants or allergens — use with caution in formulas containing high-risk actives
- ⚠Weak TRPV1 agonist activity inherited from piperine; pungency or tingling not reported at cosmetic doses but theoretically possible above 0.1%
- ⚠Limited independent regulatory review — no published SCCS opinion or CIR assessment; available safety data is manufacturer-sponsored
