Surfactant ingredient
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate is a PEG-modified glyceryl ester of isostearic acid used as the primary emulsifier in cleansing balms and cleansing oils. It enables the characteristic phase-inversion behavior of balm cleansers: the anhydrous product is oil-continuous (dissolves makeup/sebum), then upon contact with water it self-emulsifies into a milky wash-off emulsion. Its medium-chain PEG20 hydrophilic portion provides good rinseability while the triisostearate portion anchors in the oil phase.
emulsifyingcleansingsolubilizing
Benefits
- ✓Primary self-emulsifying surfactant in cleansing balms: forms an oil-continuous phase that converts to a milky emulsion upon contact with water, allowing the balm to rinse away while carrying dissolved sebum and makeup
- ✓Provides elegant, non-stripping cleansing — the anhydrous oil phase lifts lipophilic impurities without requiring a separate rinse-off micellar step
- ✓HLB value suited for creating the water-in-oil → oil-in-water phase inversion characteristic of cleansing balms (similar to PEG-20 Glyceryl Laurate but optimized for richer/more emollient textures)
Watch for
- ⚠Ethoxylated ingredient — theoretical trace contamination with 1,4-dioxane (EU-regulated); cosmetic-grade material meets purity standards
- ⚠PEG-based surfactants can disrupt the stratum corneum barrier if used in rinse-off products that are left on for extended periods; standard use in cleansing balms is safe
Compatibility
✓ Works well with
+ Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride+ Cetyl Ethylhexanoate+ Ethylhexyl Palmitate
